Goa, the Indian seaside paradise

Historic churches, Catholic relics, azulejos, crosses at the corners of the road … could it be Europe? Could it be Latin America? Well, you will find these images on the Asian continent, as well … it is Goa, a small part of Portugal transplanted thousands of miles off the Lusitanian shore, in India!

The traveler going towards India expects massive temples and dancing Shivas, the Brahmins drawing stripes on your forehead and purifying burnings or reincarnations. But it is not like that everywhere. For a breath of fresh European air, it would not be a bad idea to take a short trip to Goa, the smallest state of the Indian Union. A peculiar state, with a very different evolution from the rest of the subcontinent. It was not under either Moghul or Hindu domination, it was not a princely state or under the protectorate of the British Raj – it was a Portuguese colony! The small land on the Arabian Sea coast has known the Indian civilization until 1510 when the Portuguese landed at the mouth of the Mandovi river in search of good places to conquer and through which to run the very fruitful spice trade.

For many people, Goa means wide beaches, palm trees, rave parties, hippies and a lot of marijuana … It is true, the “flower power” period of the ’70s that brought world fame to Goa has set. There are not many hippies left, there are no rave parties in the open air anymore, except for the New Year’s Eve, and those who have marijuana can get an extended stay on the Goan coast, with a picturesque view from the prison in Fort Aguado. But, on leaving the legendary beaches or book best hotels in Goa  now full of British, Russian and Israeli tourists, you can discover the historical relics of Portugal, only two steps away.

Obviously, by far the most important cultural tourist objective is Old Goa. This city, the capital of Portugal’s Asian Empire (which included Macao in China, the Indonesian islands, Melaka in Malaysia, forts in Oman) had a bright rise around 1600. In fact, if you reach the small town now, you cannot help but be amazed at the size of churches… Old Goa was ravaged not by man, but by the power of nature – the malaria and cholera epidemics decimated the population, and the capital was moved to the mouth of the river, near the sea, at Panaji. Even if you walk through the charming maze of little streets, squares and houses painted in white and ocher, you can hardly imagine the size of the city several hundred years ago. In the centre, there are several important cathedrals starting with Se, the massive cathedral, the Episcopal Church in Goa or the churches St. Francis of Assisi or St. Cajetan. But by far the most important target is to see the Basilica of Bom Jesus where the relics of St. Francis Xavier, the one who christened Asia (called the “Apostle of the Indies”), are preserved. Here are some of the most atmospheric hotels in Goa.

If Old Goa carries you to another century, you cannot help from paying a visit to the state capital, Panaji, the smallest capital in India, a pleasant and quiet city for such a large and busy nation! You can walk peacefully through the Portuguese neighborhood of Fontainhas with its coloured homes, Catholic churches and tablets having embedded the names of inhabitants – Pinto, Figo and, especially, D’Souza!

After a day full of history, you can relax as your heart desires on River Mandovi … after darkness falls, many illuminated boats turn into discos and float up and down the river … in fact, here you can find the only legal casino in India, well hidden under the shape of a ship. And after so much gambling and dance, what can be better the following day than a morning of idleness on the famous beaches of Goa, tasting a “lime soda” and sunbathing among sacred cows…!

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Goa

Cathedral in Old Goa

Goan spices

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The wonder-beaches of Goa